Defining a movement
Dear friends,
I realized that from my perspective, there is sort of an ‘old way’ or systems of thinking about textiles and the textile market and our part in it and then some newer ways. Here is my attempt at defining the New Textile Ecology.
New Ways:
Close to home. More of us are learning to grow, prepare, spin, weave, dye, design and sew textiles at home or in small businesses where we live rather than leaving these tasks to strangers who live far away
Developing skills. Loads of people (this movement is really gaining momentum) across all ages, genders and economic strata are committing to or dabbling in acquiring the skills required to make textiles. There are thousands of Youtube channels about these things and they are getting millions of views. This is not just time idling for grannies. This is a massive movement and a lucrative market.
Using recycled or ‘waste’ materials. Upcycling materials- from tanning hides to pelletizing low grade wool to shredding discarded clothing for pillow stuffing- takes an important role in our new systems thinking.
Fair labour practices. We all know about sweatshops and factory fires and horrendous wages and special economic zones and we know we don’t want to support them! This does not mean we must withdraw from the global marketplace entirely but it means holding ourselves to account for the effects of our actions. Supporting sustainable practices and worker cooperatives are a part of this new textile movement.
Awareness of providence is growing. We are working on creating breadcrumb trails of information linking users (previously consumers) with farmers, designers, mills, sewists, dyers and retailers, all of whom play important roles in textile systems. Linking users with producers is a way of taking responsibility for the impact of our choices. Educating ourselves about the chemicals used in waterproofing or dyes helps us make decisions about what we wear and buy.
The end game! Understanding of where our garments go when we’re finished using them and of how they break down during their use cycles (eg. microfibres released in the laundry) plays an important role in how we choose textiles
Repairing. Learning to mend. Going through the long slow process of darning socks and sweaters and not buying the cheap thing that is going to pill and tear after a month of use next time.
Sharing economy and textile literacy. The role of guilds and non-monetized sharing is important and is part of transcending class divisions. Understanding basic garment construction, fibre production and fashion allow us to live richer lives in contact with the real world of materials.
Design and fashion. Creating our own clothes and other textiles allows us to imagine ourselves in the world looking how we want to look. Making things; playing with shape and surface design and pattern is so empowering! A large part of this movement is making whatever clothes you like for whatever body you have and celebrating physical and visual diversity.
Atomized business. This movement includes many many small business; many of them run from home and many of them (but not all!) run by women who are experts at finding their own unique niche in their part of the world. Rather than giant farm/ mill business, we are now seeing a plethora of farmers, shearers, wool brokers, mills, dyers, designers, yarn shops and teachers.